Thanksgiving Tables: New Ventures And Price Changes

Ask any American what their favorite Thanksgiving dish is, and they’ll either perk up with excitement or have a dreamy, reminiscent salivating answer.

Somewhere between the famous green bean casserole that grandma used to make, your foodie cousin’s bourbon-infused sweet potatoes complete with artisan marshmallows, the classic from-the-canister Pillsbury dinner rolls and the turkey — no matter if it’s baked, broiled or deep-fried — Thanksgiving dinners have evolved.

And the price of certain Thanksgiving food items would, well, frighten some Pilgrims all the way back to Europe.

Edward Winslow is the Pilgrim credited with writing about the first famous meal back in 1621. He wrote about a turkey hunt before the dinner, so we can assume the hunt was fowly fruitful. Wild turkeys happen to be native to North America, so many people challenge the rumors that the dinner’s bird choice was inspired by Queen Elizabeth I of England.

Nevertheless, we know that more than just turkey is served at the classic American Thanksgiving table. Prices within that “Thanksgiving basket” — or cornucopia in this case? — have risen not only in the past few months but, of course, in the last dozens, if not hundreds, of years.

According to the American Farm Bureau, the average American family in 2015 spent $50.11 for their Thanksgiving spread. That’s twice the amount spent in 1987, averaging $24.51. While the questions may incite around what it means for the “average American family,” PYMNTS researchers set a 10-person table.

The 2015 cost breakdown of those 10 “average” family members includes sweet potatoes ($1.19 per pound), green peas ($1.52 per pound), mashed potatoes ($2.64 per pound), green beans ($2.19 per pound), corn ($0.59 per pound), stuffing ($2.67 per a 14-ounce package) and cranberries ($2.51 per pound). That hearty 11- to 12-pound frozen turkey costs around $16, and that’s considered on the cheaper side.

Going back in time 40 or 50 years, those 10 “average” family members’ plates were clearly much less. That includes those same sweet potatoes ($0.10 per pound), green beans ($0.48 per pound), corn ($0.05 per pound) and frozen pumpkin pies ($0.79). That turkey that weighs 11 pounds? Just $4.29.

That said, if we only went back 30 years, the basket seems to have changed. According to PYMNTS research, in 1986, the average cost of Thanksgiving dinner was $28.74. Ten years later (1996), its cost rose to $31.66, according to the same source. The reason for the change is all based on history and where that product fits into society’s needs.

If you’re looking to blame one ingredient, PYMNTS researchers say there are few guilty parties. The wholesale price of sweet potatoes has been growing every year, achieving a peak in 1989. PYMNTS researchers also point to wine prices — shown through BLS data — which have increased drastically, by about 56 percent, from 2006 until this year. That said, there is no historical data available to provide a causal relationship between the consumption of alcohol and Thanksgiving, since not all the population enjoys a glass of wine.

There’s also been changes to the table, food requirement-wise.

For example, the “pesticide-free” and “organic” movement has come to the table over the past 50 years. In fact, in 2015, organic sales posted a record-breaking $43.3 billion, according to the Organic Trade Association. That was up 3 percent over the year before. While that was, of course, for the entire year, even lending a small portion of that to the Thanksgiving holiday is higher now than it was 50 years ago.

Food allergies and intolerances and their awareness have grown significantly over the last few decades. The gluten-free food market is currently $1.77 billion in the U.S., which wasn’t really even a thing 50 years ago. People are steering away from sugar, which means more interest in fresh, homemade cranberry sauce, versus the sugar-laden, gelatinous can version.

And, of course, let’s talk turkey. As turkey production falls, turkey prices go up. It’s a simple supply-demand phenomenon that occurred most obviously in the wake of the 2008 financial crisis. In comparing turkey’s trajectory to the price of potatoes, there’s a strong correlation between its price and inflation. In 1986, its price per pound was $0.26, while, 10 years later, the price went up to $0.34, almost eight cents.

Let’s not forget minding our Ps and Qs around the holiday. Who was the one in the kitchen? Take your pick of women’s magazines in the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s, the literature around the “Perfect Thanksgiving Table” seems endless. She’d cook, and he’d get the prize of carving the turkey.

There was also more (appetizing) chatter around mincemeat pie and giblet gravy, downed by a tomato juice cocktail. How about Jell-O with shrimp frosting or a cranberry soufflé salad made with real Hellmann’s mayonnaise? None of these were likely at that first meal hundreds of years ago.

Some may say we’re coming full circle to the first Thanksgiving. Pitching in together, getting back to more natural foods. While the Pilgrims may have not had all the sugar, pesticides, additives, hormones and other elements to raise or grow their food, current trends to rid our tables and bodies of them may seem familiar.

At the same time, with a click or a tap, you can easily pay for your meal. There have been businesses like Omaha Steaks that have been sending fresh meat to your door for decades. But now, the offerings have expanded to include Thanksgiving meals.

On top of that, there’s the option to skip cooking entirely and forget about preheating your oven. There’s the quick delivery options, like GrubHub and DoorDash, and also SendAMeal with its seasonal pre-order menu. Perhaps more surprising, even Neiman Marcus has made a play for Thanksgiving by not only sprucing up the table but by bringing all the fixings.

While Americans may not be thankful for these price increases, they’re likely pleased with how this holiday has both evolved and stayed the same — celebrating our heritage and families — year after year.