Fast Fashion, Circular Fashion Square Off on Sustainability Runway

It’s inexpensive and looks good just long enough, but fast fashion is taking flak for its environmental impact, potentially making circular fashion the next big thing in apparel.

Pushback against fast fashion is taking on legal dimensions starting in the European Union (EU), where the “EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles” bill was proposed in March.

The problem, as laid out in the EU proposal, is that “the trends of using garments for ever-shorter periods before throwing them away contribute the most to unsustainable patterns of overproduction and overconsumption. Such trends have become known as fast fashion, enticing consumers to keep on buying clothing of inferior quality and lower price, produced rapidly in response to the latest trends.”

The Financial Times reported in June that labels are taking the proposed EU action seriously, saying that “brands such as Decathlon, Uniqlo and H&M say they are working with Asian producers from China to India to prepare for the new rules from Brussels, but not everyone is on board.”

A big workaround is to make the old new again via recycling, or the “circular fashion” trend that’s gaining steam as more supporters join the cause.

Swiss sportswear brand On is jumping in. On Thursday (July 7), The Wall Street Journal reported that “in June, On began shipping the first 10,000 pairs of its latest model, starting with U.S. customers. The Cloudneo is pitched as ‘the shoe you will never own.’ Instead, runners pay $29.99 a month for an endless supply, provided they return worn-out pairs to be recycled.”

Subscribing to use and recycle the same pair of running shoes forever is part of On’s larger Cyclon service, giving subscribers endless access to shoes and other recycled fitness wear, or, as their website says: “You don’t own Cyclon running products, you subscribe to them (like your music). Cyclon is a subscription-based service that goes round and round and round.”

See also: H&M Stokes Fast Fashion Fight With $1B Plan to Double Sales, Slash Waste

Couture Takes a Stand

Upscale fashion sees not only the potential but is feeling the pressure to take action on circular fashion. Designer Eileen Fisher is among the latest; Vogue Business reported Wednesday (July 6) that her foundation, EFF, has thrown down the gauntlet.

The EFF issued a 130-page report titled “Hey, Fashion!” along with sustainable design company Pentatonic evaluating “over 200 brands, from luxury to fast fashion including Burberry, Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Nike, to understand industry’s impacts and offer solutions.”

Making several recommendations for more sustainable apparel manufacturing on the high end, Fisher told Vogue Business: “We want informed citizens, and so part of the work here is to raise awareness all the way through to the end consumer about consumption, the industry, which brands are doing better and trying hard. CEOs are responsible for the bottom line, but they are also responsible for the environmental, social and governance aspects.”

See also: Fast Fashion Faces Strong Headwinds, Changing Consumer Preferences

In addition to saving the planet, there’s money to be made. In a June blog post, Jessica Alsford, Morgan Stanley’s chief sustainability officer and CEO of the institute for sustainable investing, said, “We’ve already seen strong consumer and investor interest in companies with circular fashion business models. Mobilizing capital is vital to help the industry become more sustainable.”